Category: Travel
A life laid out in guide books: 2005
A life laid out in guide books: 2004
Back to Bangalore
My first trip to Bangalore in February 2005 was, practically speaking, the reason I started blogging. Somewhere about there the blog, as it became, was a few years away but my first travel blog post was written about that first trip to India.
Now I’m on my way back. Ten years, many miles, many places & many moments on.
Here’s my favorite moment from that first blog post.
Saturday I had my first true taste of Indian food when I had masala dosa (a bready pancake with a spicy filling) at breakfast. Even better than the food was our first rickshaw ride to MG road. Anyone familiar with bumper cars will already know something of the feeling you get riding a rickshaw. These guys don’t mess about, if there is a gap in the traffic they lurch for it regardless of whether it is even on the right side of the road. Buses hassle cars, cars harass rickshaws and rickshaws bully bikes. The result is a jerky, noisy adrenaline filled ride. Fantastic!
Not your usual London top ten list
Your first trip to Yosemite: Yosemite Valley
5 weeks in a campervan: revisiting New Zealand
I’m excited to say that a friend and her husband, as well as my brother are all off to New Zealand later in the year. Their planning has prompted me to revisit our trip last year and encouraged me to share more advice on campervanning in New Zealand.
Enjoying dinner in the DOC campground north of Kaikora, South Island by Ian Carvell
Our campervan
We used a company called Lucky and got the crib van because it was the cheapest we could find. We booked it through Camper Travel.
The company – the people were friendly and helpful. The office in Auckland was not far from the airport and easy to find. The vans they rent out are basically older, repurposed Jucy vans. The Jucy vans seem to be the newer, cooler vans around but they were out of our budget. As they are older, the Lucky vans definitely look and feel “used”. They were not horrible but you certainly know that they have been occupied before. We brought our own sheets for the bed and did a clean over in the van when we got it just because we knew we’d be spending a lot of time in it and we wanted it to be homely.
The driving – the crib van is like a soccer mom minivan so it’s pretty easy to drive. It has automatic gears and is not too slow. But our van was pretty old so it seemed to guzzle fuel. We felt like we were filling up every day and at $70-80 NZ each time it soon added up. Out of all the things we did on the trip the unexpected fuel costs on the van really meant we spent a lot of money in New Zealand. Yet it was all worth it!
The bed – the whole van is basically a bed on wheels. It wasn’t a proper mattress but the foam was comfortable enough for the few weeks we were in it.
The other facilities – there was also a wash basin, a small cool box for food, a stove, plates and utensils. We didn’t really use the wash basin as most of the campgrounds had better facilities for washing. The cool box was great and really helped keep the food cool and edible. We found that the stove was very hard to use in the wind and so we often used our own camping stove instead. This van does not have a toilet onboard. This means that it is not considered self contained and can limit the amount of freedom camping one can do. It’s not very hard to manage this as there are plenty of campgrounds with facilities but we just had to make sure we looked for them.
The tip – we were told by someone before we went that picking up a van in Christchurch and dropping in Auckland was the most cost effective way to do NZ. Often the van hire companies will pay you to drive the van in that direction up the islands as many people don’t go that way round. Unfortunately we were not able to find any of those deals but it seems if you can then that’s great.
Where to stay
Dinner in the Banks Peninsula, South Island by Ian Carvell
We loved staying at the DOC campgrounds. They were the most unique, scenic and the cheapest. They are often remote and very quiet. When we wanted a nice hot shower and to do laundry we headed to a “Top Ten” campground. The one in Queenstown and the one in Te Anau were both new, clean and well placed, close to town.
We would highly recommend downloading this app as it has many campgrounds on it and was really helpful to find places to stay. If you download the maps when you are at home it will really help you out when you’re in the middle of nowhere and need somewhere to stay.
Enjoy your campvanning trip in New Zealand!
Your first trip to Yosemite: Tuolumme Meadow
Tuolumne Meadows Sunset by Steve Dunleavy Licensed under CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons.
Spring and summer are the best times to visit areas in Yosemite National Park outside the main valley. If you have more than a day in the park I recommend heading along the Tioga Pass Road to Tuolumme Meadows. The views along the drive are magnificent. If you’re early in the season there will still be snow on the ground in some places and the peaks will shimmer in the bright light. Make sure to stop often, look out and breathe in the cool air.
Swimming in Tenaya Lake late afternoon Yosemite by Jono Hey. Licensed under Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic. Dimensions altered.
One stop not to miss is Tenaya Lake. If you’re lucky and it’s a hot day (or brave on a cold day) you can have a refreshing swim in the water. Especially wonderful after a long hike.
Once you finish your drive, Tuolumme meadows at the end is a beautiful sight. Freshly blooming and green in spring, the vast meadow makes for easy hiking. With the Tuolumme River flowing fast between the meadows you can enjoy the relaxing sounds of water in the quiet landscape.
While you’re there, the short hike across the meadow to the Soda Springs is worth a quick look. The cabin has historical value but the springs are modest and no competition for Yellowstone.
Lembert dome by Inklein. Licensed under CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons.
A wonderful way to get a good view out across the meadow and the surrounding peaks is to climb up Lembert Dome. You don’t need special skills or equipment, just be careful where you put your feet and don’t climb in the rain. If you have longer to explore the area add on a short hike out to Dog Lake as well.
I hope you enjoy your first trip to Tuolumme Meadows.
Over but not really…
The Magic Water Circuit, Lima – Ian Carvell
It’s been over a month since the big trip ended. In some ways it feels like normal life has resumed completely and in other ways it does not. The difference will always be different.
I feel calmer and more confident. Less afraid to be wrong.
I feel like I’m going at the pace life intended. I’m not pushing it. I’m not too slow.
I breathe and I look around. I see things.
I want less stuff in my life. Less things. I want more people, more places and more memories.
And I know how to do this now.
A lunchtime at Chez Wong
No sign. No cloakroom. No fancy servers. A notepad with our name and a nod to a table.
Other foreigners. Some professionals. Tourists. A local family. A film crew? Bourdain’s photo on the wall above us. Was that a drunk politician in the corner? Of course.
We’d all come here, the same, to this quiet place where an old man with a hat and wispy hair makes a handful of fish dishes at a table in the dining room. We’d all come to experience first rate ceviche from the hands of a master. Hands that were appropriately cutting and chopping their way through a flounder as we entered. It was a perfect lunchtime setting.
And apparently it is perfect as only days before our lunch we read that the ceviche at Chez Wong had been voted the tastiest fast food dish in the world by Chowzter. That explains the TV cameras then.
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We started with that now famous dish. Ceviche. Famous in Peru. Perfected in Lima. And praised here.
Flounder, octopus, onion, seasoning and a touch of lemon juice.
Fresh. Salty. Firm. Zingy. Spicy.
Rawer and with more bite than I’m used to, the fish and octopus were hardly cured at all. They were unadulterated. Simple.
It’s no fast food I’ve ever encountered before. But it was tasty and it was fast.
Next up was a dish cooked on the wok. Flounder and shrimps. Sweet and nutty. Again the seafood stood out. The sticky peanut sauce was delicious and moreish. A fine dish indeed.
Finally we finished with another wok dish. This time it was soy based and savoury. The inclusion of black wood ear mushroom added an interesting texture and reminded me our of days in Beijing. Again a good dish.
Then we were done.
We left as unceremoniously as we entered. Leaving the politician still drinking in the corner. Chef Wong still cutting as his table. Smiling to himself.
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Do I think the ceviche was one of the best dishes in the world? I’m not sure. I am sure that was clean, simple and honest. It tasted great. Chef Wong knows his fish and serves it well. The atmosphere is genuine and happy. I’d certainly come here again and encourage you all to do the same if you get a chance.
Chez Wong
Calle Enrique Leon Garcia 114, Lima, Peru
+511 470 6217
https://www.facebook.com/ChezJavierWong
Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
Last month we joined a group from Peru Treks to hike the ‘classic’ Inca Trail. Here is our story told (mainly) in photos.
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Day One
After a few hours on the bus from Cusco we reached the trailhead at kilometre 82.
And began winding up the trail…
…to our first stop at Patallacta.
Not long after we stopped again for our first lunch.
It was a fairly short hike in the afternoon so we had enough time to enjoy the view at Wayllabamba before dinner.
Day Two
The next morning began with more great food…
…and a big hike ahead.
After hitting it hard for 3 hours we were happy to take a break.
After another couple of hours walking we’d made it a long way up Abra de Huarmihuañusca (Dead Women’s Pass)…
…and were excited when we reached Huarmihuañusca at 4200 metres, the highest point on the trail.
After that it was down…
…and down some more…
…to our second campsite at Pacamayo…
…where a lovely dinner…
…and rum punch were served to keep the cold at bay.
Day Three
It was misty when we began hiking…
…and it was hard to see the extent of the ruins at Runkurakay…
…and at Sayacmarca.
Yet we were still able to enjoy the detailed carvings…
…that were present throughout the ruins.
After that it was a short hike down through the cloud forest…
…before we had lunch.
Then we marched onwards, upwards and over to our final Inca site at Phuyupatamarca.
Our last afternoon hike was a steep knee crunching decline down thousands of steps…
…and so we were delighted to make it to Wiñay Wayna camp and enjoy dinner.
Day Four
Our final morning was our earliest start at 3.45 am.
Hiking in the twilight we made it to Intipunku (Sungate)…
…to see the cloud rise and Machu Picchu appear.
A little further down we went and then, suddenly, we were in the heart of it.
What a sight!
What a hike!
What a great day!